Confused where the numbers “magically” come to the diaphragm bracelet? Here is an explanation
One of the basic theory of photography mentioned that every time down the diaphragm opening one-stop, means reducing the volume of light (which entered through the lens) as much as half. Conversely, if we widen the opening of the diaphragm one-stop, means increasing the volume of light as much as twice before. The explanation is as follows
Figures obtained from the ratio of the diaphragm between the lens focal length and diameter of the lens surface that serves to collect light. (f / stop = F / Ø)
So, if the lens has a diameter of 50 mm (diameter = diameter of the lens (glass) rather than the diameter of the filter holder) width of 50 mm it is said he has a diaphragm f / 1 (50 mm: 50 mm). This is a very powerful lens collects light and is currently only one manufacturer produced by the camera (canon).
From here can be calculated – using a normal lens with a maximum opening of f / 1.4 – how much the lens diameter is used to collect light.
50 mm: f / 1.4 = 35.7 mm
(rounding of 35.7142857 …….)²²
When we realize that the light is responsible for collecting the entire lens surface area in question, these calculations become more attractive again. Junior still remembers the lessons that the formula to find the area of a circle is equal to πr ² (pi r squared)? Or 22 / 7 times the radius times the radius?
So, if the radius of the lens diameter 50 mm f / 1.4 is 17.85 mm (35.7: 2) then the surface area of the lens is
π x 17.85 ²
= 3.1415926535897932384626433832795 x 318.6225
= 1000.982105268413896122063591389 mm ² (rounded to 1001 mm ²)
If we reduce the diaphragm one stop to f / 2, kemampua cahya from lens collecting the relevant be down by half. With the diaphragm f / 2, the lens diameter virtually had “changed” to 25 mm (50 mm: f / 2). The radius of the lens becomes 12.5 mm
Surface area (virtual) lens in question becomes
π x 12.5 ²
= 3.1415926535897932384626433832795 x 156.25
= 490.87385212340519350978802863742 mm ² (rounded to 491 mm ²)
Why not be half? 491 mm ² Does not have half of the 1001 mm ²?
Keep in mind that in photography there are a lot of rounding and compromise. 491 mm ² numbers are very close to half of the 1000 mm ². Besides differences in 9 mm ² area will be very little difference in the results of shooting.
However, if you are still curious, too, we see just why are not actually made half (500 mm ²). If so, we count back to
500 mm ²: π
= 500: 3.1415926535897932384626433832795
= 159.15494309189533576888376337251
159.15494309189533576888376337251 is the root of the radius of the lens, ie 12.615662610100800241235747611828 mm
From here to get the numbers as 25.231325220201600482471495223657 mm diameter. f / stop lens in question is
50 mm: 25.231325220201600482471495223657
= F / 1.9816636488030055066725143825606
The question now is, these numbers muatkah series to be written on the band width diaphragm that cute? Moreover is not it very obvious now that the actual f / 1.98, and so it was very close to f / 2?
We continue with the following diaphragm opening, which is f / 2.8 as well to show more about rounding and compromise earlier.
Virtual diameter 50 mm lens at f / 2.8 is
50mm f / 2.8 = 17.85 mm
(from 17.857142857142857142857142857143)
Radius is 17.85: 2 = 8.925 mm
Surface area:
π x 8.925 ²
= 3.1415926535897932384626433832795 x 79.655625
= 250.2455263171034740305158978472 mm ²
Or 250 mm ². Uhapir half of the previous surface area and a quarter of the area on the diaphragm permyukaan f / 1.4.
With this formula, the surface area of f / 4 is
122.71846303085129837744700715936 mm ² (rounded to 123 mm ² once again almost half of previous)
Surface area of the lens from one diaphragm to the other diaphragm less than half the range (if reduced) or twice (if raised) from the previous value.
In conjunction with shutter speed, seems clear enough that by reducing the volume of the light half (-1 stop) automatically takes twice as long (+1 stop), and vice versa, by doubling the volume of light, the time needed also becomes more rapid two – fold.
Then, do you know that there are several versions of the true meaning of the f / stop? F / stop (small f) can mean one below.
a. abbreviation of fenestra (Latin) which means “window” (interpreted as the opening of diaphragm forming a “window” for cahya to enter through the lens).
b. Abbreviations of the function (function) or fraction (fractional)
c. The symbol of the focal length (focal length) divided by the diameter of the opening (aperture)
d. From a legendary photographers (Ansel Adams) who was the form of the letter ‘f’ for the opening of the diaphragm more “beautiful” and “artistic” American standard of writing that had popular in the early 20th-century ago (eg, U.S. 1 to f / 4, US4 to f / 8, and so on).
Whichever you believe, he explained the word “stop” represents a shift of the diaphragm into the diaphragm opening of others who have stopped at the point of control bracelet.
2008 April 10 20:31:02
Revealing the Secret Photo Excellent
This paper is an adaptation of an article in photosecrets.com, I like it and prefer to read them in their own language, with its own style. At first I was published in the forum thread, but for the common weal I move them to page the article. Hopefully useful, especially for me and other beginners, and for the senior pictures are fine of course, I’m sorry, because some of your secrets become common knowledge. But of course, without training and persistent effort, this article will only be used to true stories we read in the newspaper.
We have a friend named photography, the perfect friend in travel, service to the area, pilgrimage, picnic, going home or climbing the hill. Photography makes us confident that we explore the places visited, people we meet; photography make a more meaningful way, and we enjoy the fun with her love of art. Photography makes us more grateful for the gift of sight and the chance to see the signs of divine majesty. Pleasure that can not be measured and measuring.
Photography became a strong reason for our activities, go visit various places previously had no plans, come home late, buy equipment, and so on. Burning desire to get a steady shooting pains encourages us explore a place through the bushes, turning what would mutari we take pictures, searching to find the angle of the unique and unforgettable beauty, sometimes the search is also at risk of fatal if not done with caution and calculation logic.
Finding the best viewpoint is perisitiwa big, your heart beating, while you look at him with eyes shining, you might think, is this the right time to take a picture, you may be setting up camp and waited for the best moment from time to time, from dawn till Asar, from March until December. You become a resilient and patient.
When you press the shutter release, you tie a braided sweet person with a place and its people. You are there. Photographic memory protect your encounter with what is in it. Then we show to others about places and exciting atmosphere in which we had there, majestic scenery, the people are amazing. Your soul was drawn.
The pictures like affect our minds, like teasing us, forcing us to play in it or imagining it. The photographs that we create can encourage others to want to experience the beauty or the fun that presented the image. Of course, the beautiful landscape photos and the sexy model will generate the desire and imagination are different. Desire that arises unconsciously.
Anyone can become a member fotografer.net. That means anyone can take pictures. With the addition of creative thought and effort do not know falls, you can create great images that show your creations and interpretations of what you see and snap. Indeed the velocity and acceleration of the achievement of each person is different, one could be overtaken another, but not what was reasonable. Do not upset.
Fortunately, the good do not need expensive, good photographs can be made with minimal equipment and little knowledge of technical data. The secret is to look at the artistic and critical. The art of seeing. Bisikanlah this question in the heart: What I see, and how I see it? A good photograph has qualities that demonstrate the skills, artistry, attraction, and the personality of the photographer. So we can know what a good picture. But can not know what a bad picture, ask why?
What Makes a Good Photo?
Good photographs are images that contain messages. The message can include a statement (This is Lake Toba), impression (Dusk atmosphere in Lake Toba), or expressions of emotion (Love in Lake Toba). Messages bagusadalah clear message, firmly and effectively. But how?
The message needs a subject. About what you want to convey. That might be one that you know, landscape, or abstract forms. The subject is the center of the POI and are usually placed in the foreground. Then we set the message by entering the second part, namely context, often the background. Context provides relevance, the existence, location, subject, or other interests. The message is a combination of two elements of the subject and context, foreground and background narrating the message.
As the importance of knowing what needs to be inserted into the message, we also need to know what you do not need to be incorporated into the message. Apasaja that are not part of the subject or context of the message that we make, then it is just a thorn or glass annoying, scratching pictures and make our message becomes unclear. So cut the parts that are not relevant in some POI usually with inching closer to the subject, or move to get a better viewpoint and make shots clear and clean. A painter creates art with the addition of adding what he painted as a photographer to create art with a reduction reduces the parts that do not need.
Recipe for a good photograph is:
“A foreground, a background, and nothing else.”
What Makes a Great Photo?
Great photos directly stunning eyes. While the proverb says: picture may say a thousand words, then the extraordinary photos only say one word: Wow!
A great photograph is a work of art. It captures the spirit of the subject and evokes emotion. Bob Krist called The Spirit of Place. You can also use tricks to make palpable awe visitors your photo gallery. Let’s see how.
A picture is a playground, there are places where our eyes wander and watch, also the space where our eyes to rest and relax. When we first see something, we act to not be affected. Our eyes are naturally found a light, bright areas, and find people, usually in the eyes and mouth. Do we know the people in the picture? What they feel and how does this relate to us? Are they drawing attention to something? If so, whether we recognize it (a building, a landmark) and what he? About whether these pictures? What main subject or objective? How big is the subject? We determine the scale by comparing elements with something that we know sizes, such as people, animals, or cars. Once we finished watching people and elements related, we continue our attention to elements that more abstract.
First we look at the color or tone of the subject. Red hot, cool, distant blue, natural green, black silence. Then we see the shape. Gentle curves, tight corners, the lines that sweep. How light on the subject provides subtle shadows of three-dimensional shapes. You, as a photographer, can manipulate it all by looking for light and dark, shifting the intensity of tone and hue. How the eye drawn into the picture?
Guide us in the form of texture, how the subject feels the touch. He Lembutkah, haluskah it, hard or rough? Would have character and warmth? The way the elements are juxtaposed and are influenced by the same light, makes us consider their quality and relevance. This balance leads our eye from one element to another element, investigating its unity, contrast, and detail, each item to add fun to the next item. What relation to one another of all that?
As an artist, you are faced with choices that will reveal the sense of the art you. Composition as a whole, the proportion of layout, presentation of other elements are important, you can determine which features you need, and what is best to emphasize your message.
Recipe for great photos are:
Consider how the elements related overall.
What Makes Photo Eye-Catching?
Back to the eye-catching nature of extraordinary photographs, along with his secret, just 4 keys: simplicity, color, light and depth.
Simplicity: Simplicity in art is also known as the visual economy, which eliminates all the elements or details that do not need that there is no contribution to the spirit of the composition as a whole.
Simplicity can be achieved in several ways:
• reduce the number and type of object to be targeted
• photographing closer to the subject, or if the lens can zoom in, zoom
• You can also remove elements that do not need to go through the path photoshop
Color: To create an impact on your photographs is to find a prominent color patterns. Red flowers, blue sky, sunset yellow, or green leaves. Once again, simplicity is the key to try to reduce the number and type of color in your shots for better impact. In general, a photograph should have only one main subject and one main color. Concentrate on only one of the three primary colors: red, blue or yellow. Three dominant color is very good balanced by its complement colors, namely red with green, blue with orange, and yellow with purple.
There are several ways to highlight the color, the first is to use a polarizer filter. The second way to limit the range of dark to light. Get rid of areas that are too dark or too light compared to your main subject. The third way by using Velvia slide film. The fourth way: select the best time in accordance with the purpose of your photographs:
5 hours: Morning: pink, light a very smooth and light mist to lakes, rivers and scenery.
6 hours: Sunrise: Light crispy, golden. Fit for subjects facing the east.
10 hrs 14: Middle-day: not suitable for the scene and pictures of people, but good for pictures of buildings and monuments. The colors and detail of the building is very well documented.
14 hrs 16: In the afternoon: blue sky with a polarizer.
16 hrs 18: Dusk Day: Light a warm, golden. Fit subjects facing west. The best time for landscape and people, especially one hour before sunset.
18 18:30 hours: Sunset: The sky is beautiful, starting 10 minutes before sunset until 10 minutes later.
18:30 hrs 19:30: Sunset: Photo of a beautiful night, the lights were still bernyalaan while the sky looked purple.
Light: good lighting is often the key to championship photos. The use of daylight can also effectively improve your photos. To achieve such beautiful pictures in National Geographic, Photo capture the golden light appeared after sunrise and before sunset, often called the magic hours of the photographer. Let’s see more details of the best times over.
Depth: Include a sense of depth to your picture. The depth can be achieved by DOF settings, placement of elements in the photograph, and lighting. Exposure, exposure / lighting are: the number of rays received by the sensor / film. If less light so the image tends to look dark / under, while what if excess of the photos will look tends description / over …
Lighting itself is a combination of AV / aperture value that is the size of the diaphragm, TV / time value / shutter speed of the shutter opening duration, and the last ISO / iternasional standards organization which in this case is an international standard for the sensitivity level sensor / film …
This exposure alone is often not as dianalogi we want to fill the glass with water from the tap … Where is the tap rotation compared with the aperture, while the tap is opened compared with the shutter speed, compared with the ISO glass, water pressure compared with the intensity of illumination (light or low light), and finally water compared with the light … So if the faucet wide open so we’ll quickly full glass … While we tap kecilin reply then the glass will be longer completely … And when we pake large glass (low-iso) then we will also be longer to fill the glass, unlike if we kecilin glass (high iso) so the glass would be full faster … But still large digelas water more than that in a small glass … Similarly, the water pressure, the higher the water pressure (bright light conditions), or the smaller the water pressure (low light) will affect the charging time … But sometimes before we have a full glass of tap it happens to hail a state under … Or just the opposite even though the glass is full but we are closing the tap belom the situation over there …
Ease today this exposure was calculated automatically by the camera with a name metering system. It works like Matering light / flash meters. The difference in this system can measure continuous light just … And another advantage is the technology now we can analyze the image from the histogram on camera … While ancient kalo a photographer must carry a bundle of records containing such things as photographs reply av broad daylight, tv, how the iso it all, there are clouds continue to reply so many, many reply that afternoon, and so on …
Now working principle of this metering determines exposure itself is gray 18% (according to the gray card) in a lighting condition … So when we photographed the object or situation the dominant white / light / hi key abu-abu/gelap will look at our photos, and when we photographed the dominant object in black / dark / low key will also be seen a gray / at our pictures are brighter than actual circumstances … And hence we have the camera exposure compensation (in the two-digit class number -2 to 2).
And conclusions also reply to a picture with the right exposure (exposure corect) yes measuring / metering is on the gray card placed on the lighting would we measure exposurenya …
And one more if the contras between where the most dark or bright cause has not caught again Full Story at dark or bright places are, then you have to choose between being on the exposure or sacrifice one of them (keep in the shadows Story or at the light). .. Sukur-sukur not reply vast dark place and we can lift the (fill in) with artificial illumination such as flash …
At the time, high contrast is needed dynamic range camera with a wide range or use the usual editing techniques we call HDR …
Return to the components of the exposure:
a. Aperture
Aperture has the following rates (for shift 1 stop): … 1; 1.4; 2; 2.8; 4; 5.6; 8; 11; 16; 22; 32; …
Numbers above mean itself is an open hole on the lens we like (number above) from the broad lens of our … That need to be seen how the aperture affects our image that is more wide open aperture (small number) the more narrower / shorter DOF / space we get a sharp … And the narrower the hole (large number) it will get longer DOF / space we get a sharp …
Regarding input from oom Kana Lay there is a theory that a lens that will record a maximum of lenses in the subject when aperturnya set about 3 stops from the aperture is narrower broadest … Example: if the lens with the widest opening 2.8; terbeningnya the images will be found in the opening 8 …
b. Shutter Speed
There are also numbers on the shutter speed is as follows (for a shift in one stop): … 8000, 4000, 2000, 1000, 500, 250, 125, 60, 30, 15, 8, 4, 0’5, 1 ‘, 2 ‘, 4′, 8 ‘, 15′, 30 ‘, bulb (for a camera shutter button to continue recording) … Numbers above mean itself is like (number above) seconds and seconds to sign ‘. That need to be seen how speed affects our image that is: with a high speed moving subject (particularly silence) will look frozen, so look sharp … While in low speed motion (movement) of the moving subject will also be recorded by the camera … And if dilamakan again at a certain time moving object will not be recorded by the camera at all (not present in the photo) …
Now to determine their own speed so that our image freze (frozen) and a sharp two things to consider:
b1. Minimum speed to freeze subject motion (subject motion)
Basically the various levels of shutter speed to freeze the subject … This is strongly influenced by the speed of the subject itself … As the reply was photographed pause (poses) with 0.5 seconds may still frozen … But the speed of the frozen much for reply belom street person … Between the road and running speed is also different for the freeze … Movement on the stage may be frozen at the speed 1/125dtk … But maybe could freeze belom street bike … So it is with people who are racing course should be even faster speed to freeze … But apart from the speed of the subject itself, there are other things also affect the subject distance and direction of our movement … The closer the subject the more rapid the movement … This is why aircraft fly so fast but it seemed slow when the sky … Because distance emang far … Kalo sabject direction of movement toward or away from us will be different from the speed when moving parallel to the sisubject our view …
b2. Minimum speed the capture of hands held way (by holding the camera without a pedestal or tripot)
In principle, the long focal length the more we use it will be more easy movement on our camera, which will take recorded on the photo … Held hands eating this formula associated with the long focal length that is speed = 1 / (long focal length)
Well this is where the IS (image stabilizer) was very influential … IS my own prisipnya by analogy with Shockbreaker the car … Technology serves to reduce vibration happens … Maybe that is often a question where the hell IS bagusan on what lens to the body … Kalo my personal opinion, the same analogy as a shock to move from a motor under the seat to be near the wheel … Quencher placed closer to the source of more efficient work … Yes of course IS the better lens for more light first movement into the new lens forwarded to the sensor … But IS also has limitations in reducing the vibration …
So while speed is too slow that we should use tripot … Actually there are two tripot function, which I will explain only part focusing on … Satuhal that needs to remember, turn off IS if you take pictures using tripot
That should be emphasized here:
- IS and Tripot only to dampen vibration on camera … But not to freeze the subject …
- Not all photos have to freeze it, because there are some pictures that are beautiful if we use such a low speed stream photographed to look like cotton, photographing the car lights are there in the street, and even in the action stage also will be more beautiful if slightly motionnya caught.
- There are even pictures of where the camera techniques deliberately shaken at low speed …
c. ISO
Figures from the ISO itself is (for a change 1 stop): … 50, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, … The higher the ISO number the more sensitive the sensor / film when exposed to light … I need to know how the ISO affects our image, namely: higher iso will likely cause more image noise, less contrast, less resolution …
A little addition to the figures above related to the stop is as follows: when you take a picture with the exposure speed 60, the diaphragm 8, and ISO 100 … Apparently you think your subject is less frozen and decided to raise the speed to 125 (1 stop) … To get the exposure value (the same light dark in the photo) then you have to expand your diaphragm opening to 5.6 (from 8 to 5.6 = 1 stop) or you should increase your iso to 200 (up 1 stop) … Well this is the technical factors that make each photographer’s photos of different … In certain circumstances there are photographers who prefer to sacrifice speed, there is a sacrifice ruangtajam, and there is more tolerance for noise is the picture of them …
Well this is where you will decide to use the mode where the creative zone … Kalo your priorities in the diaphragm for example because you want to get a stable dof use AV mode because your aperture will always remain, and your speed will automatically look for camera … But your reply on priorities such as speed subjectnya want to be frozen, use the tv mode because your speed will always remain while the aperture will be determined automatically by the camera … Kalo fixed which occurred on Stelan TV example, you specify you want to take on speed 125 … figure your exposure on camera metering and 2.8 show the number you are using a lens with f terlebarnya maximal 2.8. Then the numbers flashing, it indicates the level of iso you’re using it, although still under the automatic setting is resolved by the camera (in this aperture) is the maximum … Means you must raise the ISO to aperturnya not blink again so that you get the exposure right … Normally when you blink reply forced to take pictures without changing the ISO, it will adjust itself speednya which in this case to a lower speed if you’re using tv mode …
O it, if you doubt terhadapa exposure value you want it, it’s good you do braketing (AEB = auto exposure baketing) … That is a facility of the camera where the three frames that we will have pictures under the size, the right size according to camera, and size over … How stop under and we can overnya stel … So every subject we have a portrait photograph of three times, and we’ll get three photos with different exposure … How to settingnya: menu -> AEB -> Set -> quick control dial (to determine how stopnya) -> set.
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